Which product should I use?
Although epoxy is a very versatile material system and can be used for a wide range of products, we do design our products for specific applications. Choosing the right system is important in terms of getting the optimal results. Essentially we have two types of resin systems: general laminating/coating resins and casting resins.
Our general laminating/coating resins are generally used when you are applying a thin layer of resin as an adhesive or coating. They come in two varieties, room temperature cure resins and heat assisted cure resins. The room temperature cure systems are very low viscosity resins and lend themselves well to applications where only ambient temperatures are used to cure the resin. Our room temperature cure laminating systems are Super Sap CLR and Super Sap ONE. Our heat assisted cure system is Super Sap CPM and is similar to our room temperature cure systems except that they should be used when heat is applied to accelerate the cure of the resin.
Our casting resins are used when you need making a casted product or a thick coating (typically thicker 3mm). Super Sap CCR is our casting system and has a high clarity and a slow cure that enables it to be used in bulk.
How do I choose the right resin system?
It depends on what you want to produce (end use) and how you want to do it (application).
For example, let’s say you are thinking about making a surfboard. You need to ask yourself the following questions:
1. What kind of surface?
Wooden surfboard? —> Clear UV —> SuperSap CLR (CLS/CLF/CLX)
Pigmented/Dark Surfboard?” —> SuperSap CLR (CLS/CLF/CLX)
White surfboard? —–> SuperSap BRT (CLS/CLF/CLX)
To determine the right hardener:
2. Do you need room temperature or a heat-assisted resin?
3. Do you have a preferred viscosity?
4. How much time (pot life) do you need to work with the resin?
5. Do you have any cycle time requests?
What is the correct mix ratio of resin to hardener?
Most systems have a mix ratio by weight or volume. You can see it written in the labels, and in the TDS (Technical Data Sheet). For example:
100:43 by weight or 2:1 by volume.
Mix ratio resin to hardener:
100:47 by weight or 2:1 by volume.
Mix ratio resin to hardener:
100:44 by weight or 2:1 by volume.
When volumetric mix ratio is not shown, that means than it is not possible to mix in 2:1 by volume.
What does “post cure recommended” mean and why would I need to do that?
Although you can cure our room temperature cure systems at ambient temperatures, post curing any of our epoxy products will improve their mechanical properties as well as their temperature resistance. Typically we would recommend post curing the resin at a temperature higher than the material will see in use but some good targets would be:
50°C for 4-6 hrs
65°C for 2-3 hrs
80°C for 1hr.
120°F for 4-6 hrs
150°F for 2-3 hrs
180°F for 1hr.
In general the hotter it is the shorter you will have to do the post cure.
Temperature resistance, also known as glass transition temperature or Tg, is a property of the resin that is always improved by adding heat to your cure process. This can be done by either curing the resin with heat or doing a post cure to your part after an initial room temperature cure.
Can I add colour to the resin?
Yes, you can add colour or tint the resin. There are many pigments that are commercially available to add colour to resin. Typically they come as a thick liquid or paste but they can also come in a powdered form. So long as the pigment is compatible with resins (epoxy, polyester, urethane) it will work with Super Sap. One thing to keep in mind, the thicker the resin layer, the more opaque the colour will be.
Which resin is the right one for making jewellery?
SuperSap CLR can be used for thin coatings in jewellery.
SuperSap CCR is the primary resin for jewellery ideal for casting applications. When you need a thick casting system you need SuperSap CCR because SuperSap CLR gets cloudy when casting thicker parts.
I will be glassing a surfboard – which system do I need?
Our recommendation would be for you to glass with the CLR/CLS system if you have low experience or with the CLR/CLF system if you are an experienced glasser. Professional glassers would go with the CLR/CLX system. It’s all about how fast you can glass the board. You can check the pot life in the RACK card.
If you want to make a white surfboard you should go for a BRT system, they work with the same hardeners. (CLS/CLF/CLX). If you are glassing a pigmented/dark surfboard, we recommend SuperSap CLR (with hardeners CLS/CLF/CLX). Lastly, if you are glassing a wooden surfboard, then you can choose between SuperSap CLR (with hardeners CLS/CLF/CLX) and SuperSap ONE (higher bio-based content, with hardener ONF which has an 18 min pot life).
All combinations would be 2:1 mix ratio by volume, slight less by weight. The hardener CLF will give you the pot life of 20 min and sand time of 4hrs, however many larger volume manufacturers prefer the hardener CLX as it is slightly faster (15 min pot life, 2-3 hr sand time).
I am looking for a clear resin with a very high viscosity
In addition to SuperSap CLR/CLX, if you are looking for a higher viscosity we recommend SuperSap CLR with its slower hardener called SuperSap CLS. Thus, the system SuperSap CLR/CLS has a higher viscosity. This is a clear, room temperature cure and with higher viscosity.
I am making compression-moulding skis and snowboards. Which resin system is correct?
It depends on how you are making them:
Room temperature cure: SuperSap CLR
Heat cure press: SuperSap CPM or SuperSap 305 (our new generation of compression-molding resin) – this is usually for more experienced or professional work. Sometimes we don’t carry this resin so there may be a wait time before we can get some out to you.
The CPM system can be cured at room temperature but it is not recommended. It can develop some surface blush when cured to open air without heat and will not develop its full properties at room temperature. If you are only using room temperature then I would recommend using CLR. For a snowboard however, we would highly recommend finding a way to add heat to your cure process or the board could not be mechanically sound enough to ride.
Which epoxy is best for building a bamboo frame bike?
SuperSap CLR with CLF (FAST) would be the best way to go. If you need a bit more working time you could go with CLS (SLOW) but if you go that route try to make sure the bike sees a bit of heat in the form of a post cure at some point during the process. This will ensure that the epoxy achieves good mechanical properties. Anything above 50C for a few hours should do the trick.
How much resin would be needed to wet layup a snowboard?
Typically it’s about 1kg of resin per board. In volume that would be about 1 litre. This is just a ballpark figure as your layup schedule, process, and material types will dictate the exact amount.
I am making jewellery with SuperSap CCR-CCF. Does it need to go in a vacuum chamber to get rid of the bubbles/degassing?
It can be helpful to use one, but there are clients (depending on their level of experience usually) who are able to use CCR without a vacuum chamber. If you have one already then we would say go ahead and use it. It will depend on the shapes and sizes of the pieces, but by playing with the temperature of the resin you can find a balance between the curing time and the emergence of bubbles. Regardless, if you have the equipment (vacuum chamber, etc) then it will all go much faster.
What is the shelf life for unopened and opened resins?
Shelf life is from manufacturing date: for resins it is 24 months and for hardeners an average of 12 months. Open bottles are a different story since air could react with hardeners and make them yellow…they will still perform just fine, but the color could change. It is important to keep the caps clean and at the right temperature. Open bottles of resin could also accelerate crystallization, but that is not a problem, it is simply an inconvenience that can be solved as per our guidance.
UV Stability – Will SuperSap become yellow over time when exposed to the sun? How can I avoid that?
All epoxy will eventually yellow overtime. The amount of UV exposure will dictate how fast this occurs and all conditions are different so it would be hard to give an exact number. As a general rule of thumb, our resins are designed to show little to no color change for indoor applications without direct sunlight on a time scale of years. For outdoor applications in direct sunlight yellowing can occur over a period of months. We would never recommend using the resins for applications that are in constant direct sunlight, but if you want an extra layer of protection, then we recommend using a PU (polyurethane) top coat, that will give 100% UV protection.
Do I need to use any additives for the hot coating?
No, there is no need to use additives for the hot coating.
Is there resin from pine trees in the composition of SuperSap?
SuperSap is not the same as the resins from trees (ie pine trees), even though it is called Sap, it is a co-product from bio based materials, but not directly from trees.
What do we mean when we say: “Biomass sourced as a co-product”?
As we say on our website about SuperSap,“biomass sourced as a co-product” means that the resins come from the waste that is produced during the biomass manufacturing process, and what we take away from these processes is the “bio” part of the resin.
For more information or if you can’t find the answers you are looking for in the FAQs above, please email us on firstname.lastname@example.org.